Tory Island in Donegal

The Haunting Island of Tory off the North West Coast of Ireland.

© John O'Connor

Sep 16, 2008
Tory Island, DoChara
Lashed by storms, visiting Tory Island can be an arduous experience, but its stunning scenery, art history and friendly dolphin warmly reward the hardy traveller.

Tory Island stands Northwest of Horn Head and can be reached by ferry from Magheraroarty in Donegal. It derives its name from the Gaelic ‘Toraigh’ meaning ‘High Cliffs’ and has been described as the most isolated, desolate and windswept of the Irish islands.

It is approximately 5 km long, 1 km wide with a population of fewer than 200 divided into four towns, East Town, West Town, Middletown and Newtown.

Tory Island Folklore

Some scholars refer to it as the island of the outlaws and pirates, perhaps with reference to the mythical tale that it was inhabited by the seafaring Fomorians. Their king was Balor of the Evil Eye, whose one eye had to be covered due to its capability for destruction. Balor was eventually killed by his grandson Lugh, who represents goodness and light in Irish mythology, in direct contrast to the dark and malign Balor.

In the sixth century the missionary Colm Cille arrived in Tory to convert the islanders after experiencing a vision telling him to build a monastery. One legend has it that his journey was made straightforward when “God opened the waters of Tory Island for him and he walked across to the island.”

Tory folklore tells a different story. Colm Cille together with Finian and Beaglaoch stood on top of Cnon na Naomh (hill of saints) in Magheraroarty and tossed their croziers (shaped liked a shepherd’s cross) into the sea to decide which would convert the island. Not only did Colm Cille’s travelled furthest, it made a small crater on the Northeast cliffs.

Places To See on Tory Island

Balor’s Fort: On the Eastern edge of the island and surrounded on three sides by 90 metre high cliffs, the fort is only accessible by a narrow strip of land and defended by four earthen embankments.

The Wishing Stone: A steep flat-topped rock alongside the northern cliff face of Balor’s Fort. Tradition has it that a wish is granted to anyone stepping onto the rock or who succeeds in throwing three stones onto it. However, the rock is extremely dangerous and visitors are advised not to approach.

The Bell Tower: Regarded as the most impressive structure on the island since the destruction of Colm Cille’s monastery. Up to 1595 the monastery dominated life on Tory, when it was plundered and destroyed by English troops engaged in conflict with local chieftains. The Bell Tower was subsequently built in the 6th or 7th century, primarily to warn of attacks from the sea.

The Lighthouse: Built between 1828 and 1832, it stands on the west of the island and was designed by George Halpin. It was automated in 1990 and is one of three in Ireland with GPS.

Art on Tory Island

Since the 1950’s Tory Island has been home to a small community of artists. English artist Derek Hill, who died in 2000, was closely associated with the island. Patsy Dan Rodgers is the current King of Tory, a post with no formal powers and elected by the island community, and is an artist and musician of some renown. The King takes to his duties with relish, meeting every passenger ferry that lands and greeting every visitor personally.

Duggie The Dolphin

Since the spring of 2006 a young male dolphin has settled around Tory Island. Named Duggie by the islanders, it has struck an unlikely friendship with a local Labrador called Ben. As soon as Duggie arrives, Ben joins him in the harbour for hours at a time and the couple have warmed hearts the world over.

Mythology, Art and Dolphins may seem an unlikely trio but Tory Island is home to all, and though a visit may be demanding it will prove ultimately rewarding.

Sources

The Donegal Library

DoChara

BBC – From Our Own Correspondent


The copyright of the article Tory Island in Donegal in Ireland Travel is owned by John O'Connor. Permission to republish Tory Island in Donegal in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


Tory Island, DoChara
Tory Island Wishing Stone, oileanthorai
     


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